I wanted to create a bikepacking circuit that incorporated the excellent Lon Las Eryri—a fantastic, traffic-free cycle route west of the mountains. The best section runs south from Caernarfon to Criccieth. It’s level, well-surfaced, and incredibly scenic. You feel as though you’re floating through fields, with the sea on your right and the mountains of Snowdonia on your left. Even the more enclosed sections further north are interesting, winding through Caernarfon and wooded glades alive with native trees and singing birds.
When I realised I could complete the circuit by including sections of the Penmachno and Gwydyr mountain bike trails, I knew we had a good route. I’ve since tweaked it to avoid Bangor more than I did on my original trip. The lanes that NCN 5 follows near Bangor are litter-strewn, often host to unsavoury activity, and generally unpleasant. The revised route now uses quieter country lanes further south. While there’s quite a bit of tarmac overall, it’s mostly peaceful country roads that provide pleasant riding and link the off-road sections well.
There’s one decent push—from Croesor Mine to Rhosydd Mine—but it wouldn’t be bikepacking without a bit of a hike-a-bike, would it?
I started in Trefriw with my friend Richard. You can safely leave a car in Trefriw at the parking on Gower Road (opposite the Woollen Mill) for several days. If arriving by train, Conwy is a good entry point, or if timings work, Llanrwst North station is even closer.
From Trefriw, woodland paths help you avoid the unpleasant B5106, though it’s a long climb up to Bwlch y Ddeufaen. From there, it’s brilliant off-road riding—mostly downhill with great views out to sea and Anglesey—along an ancient trackway. This was the original “coastal” route across North Wales, used even before the Romans, who later formalised it. Now it’s ours!
If you’re on holiday, take a detour to see the Aber Falls, and maybe grab a bite at the lovely café in Abergwyngregyn. From there, join National Cycle Route 5 towards Bangor. To avoid Bangor, continue towards Rachub—this is where I’ve re-routed the track for a more pleasant and interesting alternative. You’ll catch a beautiful slice of the Lon Las Ogwen cycleway, complete with a tunnel, before quiet lanes lead you across to the Lon Las Eryri.
Follow the Lon Las Eryri south—we stopped for a curry in Caernarfon—but be aware that camping spots are sparse in this area. We managed a sneaky one far from any homes, though we still encountered a few dog walkers! Staying in Caernarfon or the Penygroes area could be a good alternative.
Leaving the Lon Las Eryri is a shame, but the following lanes are lovely—especially the high ground near Llyn Du. Just before reaching Llyn Du, a detour to visit the Slate Mill is worthwhile. Then it’s full steam ahead to the brilliant Carreg Shop and Café in Llanfrothen—a must-visit refuelling stop.
Now the hills begin. Croesor is charming, with another small café. The route climbs into Cwm Croesor, leading into slate mining country—a World Heritage Site. After a bumpy descent, you’ll enjoy a lovely ride through Cwmorthin. It’s tarmac again for a stretch, and while the climb up Cwm Teigl should be manageable, fatigue may be setting in by then. We camped at the Rhiwbach Quarry—quiet, sheltered, and a great spot.
Drop down to Penmachno—there’s a shop and bunkhouse if needed—then climb up to join the Dolen Eryri Trail, which offers a pleasant lead-in to a fast descent into Betws-y-Coed, where you’ll find all the amenities you could want. From there, it’s the latter half of the Gwydir Fawr Trail (formerly the Marin Trail), which ends with a fantastic descent to Sawbench, then a sneaky route through the woods back to Trefriw. Stay off the road here—it’s horrible!
At 87 miles with 3,000 metres of ascent, this route includes some very fast sections and some very slow ones, with plenty of lovely places to stop. I recommend taking three days to complete it. It’s not really one to race—take your time, enjoy the quick bits on the Lon Las Eryri, and revel in the slower, scenic sections. It’s varied, and it’s very, very good.
Mike Raine - Bikepacking 
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